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Taking a rough-and-tumble look at Juneau's neighborhoods
By MARK SABBATINI
JUNEAU EMPIRE
So, do you want your neighbors to be those artsy liberals downtown, the suits in the valley or whoever might be in that run-down cabin a half-mile away in the woods far from town?
This, of course, is a gross simplification of Juneau's neighborhoods, as is any attempt to classify each area perfectly. Like most towns, you'll find nice homes near trailer parks and popular hangouts well away from the best-known fun spots. But for those considering relocating to Juneau, here's a rough-and-tumble look at who and what you're likely to find in various spots.
Downtown
The place to experience the strongest taste of Juneau's culture. The thrill of nonstop community events and agony of cruise ship fog horns at 5 a.m. awaits.
This area is swarming with activity two-thirds of the year, as politicians flock to the Capitol at the beginning of the year for the annual legislative sessions, followed by the hundreds of thousands of tourists in late spring and summer. Downtown is mostly a collection of tourist-oriented shops and restaurants, many of which close during the off-season, but plenty of coffee shops, mom-and-pop stores selling various essentials, and nightspots offering everything from live music to avante garde theater keep things busy year-round. The city's high school, main library branch, municipal buildings, and main convention and community center (Centennial Hall) are also here.
Housing is generally older and more historic than elsewhere, with a diverse flavor that would make any developer of California mass master-planned housing shudder. Gorgeous historical masterpieces listed as "must-sees" for tourists taking walking tours mingle with humbler domains of all sizes that might house twentysomething locals eking out a commune-like living. Mixed snugly between it all are plenty of dwellings in the middle ranges. As might be expected, vacancies in some of the most colorful and scenic areas can be very hard to come by.
The population here is generally considered more liberal than those who live among the malls in Mendenhall Valley, although there's hardly a rivalry about it unless they get to talking politics at election time. Also, while the swarms of tourists are greatly diminished once you leave the main commercial streets, the overall impact of tourism remains one of the city's mostly hotly debated issues. Some love the flag- and flower-lined streets, hustle and bustle, and outdoor concerts on summer Friday nights that can be heard throughout downtown; others resent the noise, scarce parking, cruise ship emissions and growing number of T-shirt stores replacing longtime businesses selling more essential everyday items.
West Juneau
For those seeking the spectacular views of downtown Juneau featured in brochures and other promotional material, this is the place to live.
A variety of housing, from clusters of condos to lavish homes at the highest end of the market, is found on this steep slopeside community that extends about a mile-and-a-half south of the bridge linking Juneau and Douglas Island. Waterfront and higher-elevation homes with the best views generally command higher prices, but options for most price ranges are generally available somewhere along here.
Because it's near downtown, many of the same advantages and disadvantages apply. An added plus for some may be the more residential setting. A minus is the area gets much less sunlight during the winter due to mountains blocking its ultra-low traverse (this applies to other communities along Douglas Highway as well). This also makes for some icy roads in bad weather.
Douglas
Whatever you do, don't confuse Douglas with West Juneau - especially when talking with those who live here.
This diverse community at the south end of Douglas Highway clings to its identity, hosting its own Fourth of July parade (where kids get $1 to participate), with community landmarks such as Perseverance Theatre and Sandy Beach located here. Housing options are varied, but with less modern development than West Juneau - meaning more traditional middle-of-the-road homes, and fewer condos and sparkling new high-end masterpieces.
The "downtown" area of Douglas features a few blocks of community and commercial buildings that contribute to the feeling of a separate self-sufficient community, including a library, gas station, cafe and fire station. Those needing groceries still need to cross the bridge and mingle with the rest of the locals.
North Douglas
All kinds of housing options are available along this 12-mile stretch of road extending north of the Douglas Bridge, from mobile homes to lavish modern waterfront homes with some of Juneau's most spectacular views and prices. There is virtually no commercial or industrial presence here, although the road to Eaglecrest ski area is located at the nine-mile mark.
Options generally remain diverse throughout the entire stretch, but the higher-end options are largely toward the end of the road where the landscape opens up, offering million-dollar panoramic views of the water, mountains and glaciers. Availability is generally good here, although like elsewhere vacancies of premium property can be scarce.
Those enticed by this area are advised to take a long-term outlook, since the northern end in particular could see significant development in the years to come. Among the proposed projects are an 18-hole golf course and a second bridge linking Juneau and Douglas Island.
Thane
Located at the southern end of Juneau's road system, this is another community that takes pride in its individual identity. But unlike Douglas, this is purely a residential area. Inhabitants need to make the five-mile drive north into downtown to stock up on groceries during the winter, always a recommended precaution since avalanches from the mountains towering above occasionally isolate the inhabitants for a day or two.
The area offers great views of Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island, along with access to beach trails and the historic Sheep Creek trail. The main intrusion, at least during the summer, is from the cruise ships making their way to and from downtown. Passengers won't wander anywhere near the neighborhood, but the early morning fog horns will inevitably thunder through when the weather turns misty.
Housing is best described as nice, but scarce. There aren't that many homes to begin with and future development potential is limited by the avalanche zones. There are a few empty parcels of land, but be prepared pay premium prices and deal with lots of trees and steep hillsides when building.
Twin Lakes/Mountainside Estates
Generally speaking, the higher here the better.
Some of Juneau's better views are in the much sought-after hillside homes in this area, which for simplicity's sake will be categorized as the area from the high school to Lemon Creek (see next listing below). A decent range of homes, plus a few non-flashy businesses and community facilities, are along this five-mile stretch of Glacier Highway, which runs mostly parallel to Egan Drive.
At roughly the halfway point is Twin Lakes park on the left side of the road, and Bartlett Regional Hospital to the right. The narrow, mile-and-a-half long park is a popular ice skating place when things freeze over and walking/jogging area at other times. A minor drawback is the lakes area seems to get more mosquitoes than many other neighborhoods.
Housing generally covers a wide middle-class spectrum, although the Mountainside Estates area above Twin Lakes can definite extend into the high-end category. Fans of the mountain views will find the Juneau Airport a somewhat annoying landmark and helicopter noise can be a nuisance at times, but there's also something fascinating about watching large planes twist through the hills onto a runway only a relative handful of commercial pilots are qualified to land on.
Lemon Creek
Although residents in some sections might cringe, this is largely one of the area's low-rent industrial districts. The city's garbage facility and police station are located here, as is the state prison facility, a large gravel pit and lots of industrial businesses in metal buildings (it is also home to Juneau's somewhat smallish Costco warehouse).
The expected mobile homes and low-rent apartments are here, but there are also pockets of more upscale housing (some very nice woodland homes along Switzer Creek are a good example). For those with a stigma about the low-end options ... well, that's what folks here rely on to keep the snobbish rip-raff out. Others on a budget will find some of the city's most affordable options here. And you can get your million-dollar views while avoiding those huge health club fees by climbing the hills just behind your own personal castle.
The neighborhood extends north for a two-mile stretch on Glacier Highway as it continues to parallel Egan Drive before merging with it at Fred Meyer, a West-Coast based one-stop-shopping retail store. A Kmart at the halfway stretch of the road failed to attract enough competing shoppers and the large building is abandoned for the time being.
Airport
A mostly commercial and industrial neighborhood, this is home to the Nugget Mall, a number of smaller shopping plazas, most of Juneau's car dealerships and, of course, the Juneau Airport. There's also a scattering of residential areas. None will rival the best Juneau has to offer, but those on a budget could do worse than starting their search here.
Anyone moving into a house near the airport should expect noise at times, but it's hardly JFK or Sea-Tac. Something not so obvious to be aware of for a limited area is the city's sewage treatment plant is near the airport.
On the other hand, even at the airport one can wander out and find a popular hiking option. The flat Juneau Wetlands are here and the trail almost literally crosses the runway (it runs along the fence bordering it). There's also a couple of active nightspots, including Juneau's best spot for sports fans wanting to catch the full range of games across the country (Marlintini's).
Mendenhall Valley
The suburbs, or at least as close to them as you'll find in Juneau. The retreating Mendenhall Glacier carved one of the city's few large flat landscapes here, and housing options are numerous, diverse and always available.
The valley extends from the Mendenhall Mall just off Egan Drive about five miles to the Mendenhall Glacier, the city's most famous tourist attraction. The area is almost exclusively residential past the initial cluster of stores - complete with a number of schools, churches and parks - although the city's largest movie theater (five screens) is about a mile down the road. If you need furnishings and other essentials for your new home, this is the first area to go bargain hunting at garage sales on Saturday mornings. Also, those wanting a yard big enough to actually play, garden or relax in may find their best options are here.
Some tracts offer great views of the glacier and/or surrounding mountains. Others will be hard to distinguish from neighborhoods in any other small modern city. There is also a stretch of subsidized housing along the south side of the loop for low-income families. The Mendenhall River cuts through the center of the valley and dwellers in what are generally more expensive homes can watch rafters cruise by on heavily-promoted float trips during the summer.
Back Loop
Quieter, more woodsy and often more upscale than most of the Mendenhall Valley. It is located on the northern side of the valley, starting roughly at the turnoff to the west Mendenhall Glacier trail on Mendenhall Loop Road.
Housing options are diverse, generally available and some new development is taking place. There is very little commercial activity, although the University of Alaska Southeast and a few businesses (gas stations and restaurants; don't expect a college town environment) are at the end of the road where it rejoins Glacier Highway. Auke Lake is also nearby, another popular and highly scenic recreation and ice skating area.
Auke Bay/Tee Harbor
When it comes to waterfront, it doesn't get any better than this.
The best homes along these bays feature world-class panoramic views of the channel and surrounding mountains, and the lavishiness of the homes and their cost often reflects this. Prices can easily exceed anything else found in Juneau, but that vast majority of buyers on ordinary budgets can take comfort in knowing the premium homes are seldom available anyways.
More affordable (and available) options await those willing to sacrifice living on the waterfront, a perfect view, or both. They range from a few clusters of housing with a suburban feel to isolated residents of various types set back in the woods. Living here probably means a relatively long commute - it's roughly five miles to the Mendenhall Valley and 10 to 15 miles from downtown. Whether this is an advantage or drawback is an obvious factor in the decision process. Also, sections of this area are likely to see future development - those who don't want neighbors too close are advised to study up on potential plans.
Out the road
OK, now it's anyone's guess.
If nothing else, this is probably the best opportunity to experience the "real" Alaska outside of Juneau (and that doesn't include Anchorage). If your dream is a tiny run-down cabin heated by a wood stove, shooting your own food on several hundred acres of your own private forest or living in an isolated luxury wilderness lodge with views equaling the area's best, there's probably an option here. Just be prepared for a long commute - and maybe an impossible one when the snow gets heavy in winter.
Most of the city's housing ends about 15 miles from town along Glacier Highway, but pockets of it appear constantly along the 25 or so miles that continue north to the end of the road at Berners Bay. In-between are numerous trails frequented by hikers and backpackers, the scenic Eagle Beach park, and a few wilderness-related camps and retreats.
Trying to categorize prices and populations here is futile - it's safe to say something in all price ranges can likely be found. A major issue for those taking a long-term outlook (by which, we potentially mean decades) is the question of whether a road linking Juneau with communities to the north is built. If so, traffic could increase dramatically and certain spots might see considerable development.
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